CHAPTER 2 - Montolieu: Village of Books and Arts.

Montolieu is approximately 10 miles from the city of Carcassonne (or is it a town?), and is built upon a huge rock situated between two rivers - the Alzeau and the Dure. If you enjoy walking in the countryside, there are places of beauty in every direction. We have drawn up a few recommended circular of varying durations, and these easy-to-follow guides can be found in the house, and are also included in our detailed information sheets that we send out to guests prior to their stay.

It is a small town of around 800 inhabitants, with a real spirit of creativity. It is known as the Village Of Books, thanks to its 16 bookshops, (or is it 17 or 18 now? We've lost count) one or two of which also sell records. Book lovers come from all over France to visit.

But as well as being part of the literary world, there are also art shops and galleries, a fascinating museum of printing presses through the ages (with an art gallery upstairs), sculptures, and often live music. And not to mention the world-class Cérèz Franco art gallery, which is simply outstanding. Montolieu is truly blessed to have such a magnificent gallery.There is a well-stocked local small supermarket in Montolieu's 'busy' High Street (not!) - with everything you could need without having to go further afield, including a deli counter, fresh vegetables, cheeses, frozen food and a chiller cabinet.

You will soon discover that everything is within a short walk from the apartment. The atmosphere everywhere is relaxed, and there is little traffic. In fact none in 'our' street, as it allows vehicles for access and loading only.
Across the road is a wonderful wine shop, where you are welcomed to try proprietor Adrian's superb selection, and allow him to pass on some of his vast knowledge about his chosen subject. What he doesn't know about the regional wine isn't worth knowing. And if you ask him nicely, he's bound to offer you a free tasting. Just say Neil and Jane sent you!And on the subject of food, you'll be sure to marvel at the unique vegetable vending machine in the street near the school. It's stocked daily with locally grown organic produce. Need some tomatoes, carrots or onions? Just put some coins or a note in the slot, select your choice and open the door to one of the refrigerated cubes. It's amazing!No village in France worth its salt (and flour and water) is complete without its own boulangerie (baker's). We are very lucky to have one run by the ever-smiling Prenelle, serving behind the counter. It's not just good - it's exceptional.

There is also a tabac newsagent in the town, as well as an extremely good pharmacy, a hairdresser, the Post Office, and a Tourist Information Bureau.

And not to mention two new latest additions to the village; a wonderful pâtisserie (cake shop), and épicure fine (delicatessen). Warning: watch out if you're on a diet.

If you like art and music, don't miss the outlandish, as well as the world-class gallery of Cérèz Franco at the lower end of the town. Art and sculpture is in abundance over two floors and the place is definitely well worth a visit (usually open March to October with an impressive new exhibition every year). It's hard to imagine that a gallery of such high quality is in a village as small as Montolieu.

And don't miss the craziness of the L'Apostrophe, and the Manufacture de Montolieu (Factory of Montolieu) - a historic area at the lower end of the village devoted to arts, crafts and music. You won't believe your eyes!

Go out for a stroll and pop round the corner to the magnificent 12th century church of Saint André, and then maybe relax outside the bar by the fountain. Hear the church bells chime as you watch a boules match being played in the place near the fountain. You'll find a set in the apartment, so why not take on the French at their own game?

Wherever you go in Montolieu, at every turning you'll discover a new pretty street where everyone takes pride in the way it's presented. You may even discover some calligraphy graffiti on the road itself.